Colèchi chats with Ana-Maria Dragieva about how we can move towards a more regenerative relationship between nature and textiles production.
‘Shifting to biotextiles alone will not restore nature’s cycles and the damage we’ve done. We cannot rest all the problems created in the past decades to just one solution in one area. Nonetheless, the shift towards regenerative natural textiles will play a significant role in the journey to environmental restoration and healing’. (p.23)
What is the title of your work?
Fashion’s Destructive Relationship with Nature: Can The Exploration of Novel Renewable Biotextiles Recover the Perishing Link Between The Two
What was your overarching argument on the role that biomaterials can play?
Using supporting primary research in the form of interviews I argued that biomaterials can contribute to the restoration of fashion’s connection with nature and investigated whether the growing interest in biodesigned materials can recover the perishing link between the two.
Did you discover anything interesting about fibres and materials whilst writing your work?
While researching and writing, it became clear [that] synthetic fibres were invented because of man’s quest for durable and economically viable products, especially in the post World War period. Despite synthetic fibres taking over our wardrobes in the present, they’ve only been around for less than a hundred years and that, compared to all of humanity’s history, is a very small [period] – albeit one causing serious consequences.
Archaeological evidence suggests that humans were weaving plants together into garments at least 23,000 years ago and flax, which is the oldest fibre found to date, is likely to have been the first plant used for fibre by Homo sapiens, as early as 34,000 years ago. Textiles have continued to develop for thousands of years and, until recently, natural fibres and animal skins have been the predominant materials used for clothing.
From your research, how do you think we can restore nature’s relationship with fashion?
My research into fashion’s deteriorating relationship with nature investigates whether the growing interest in biodesigned materials can recover the perishing link between the two. I analysed the starting point of the industry’s detachment from the natural world and explored historical events and significant periods in humanity’s evolution. The production of man-made materials was accelerated because of capitalism’s desire for constant growth and the promotion of consumption as proof of a pleasant and healthy lifestyle.
All research conducted indicates that, in order to restore the link between the natural world and fashion, new solutions need to be introduced – ones that mimic naturally occurring processes more closely. To restore the link between nature’s cycles and fashion, we need to introduce the use of new solutions by looking at how nature operates. There will not be one fix or solution that will resolve the problems of the existing fashion system. The fashion industry is intrinsically linked to nature through its use of raw materials like cotton, wool, and viscose. This connection means it has an obligation to embed sustainability across its supply chain while helping to tackle climate change and the loss of biodiversity. However, focusing on sustainable materials solely will not be enough. There is more than one factor defining the successful recovery of the damage done to the environment. The implementation of a strong enough group of solutions will require collective efforts from all participants in the fashion value chain – big and small scale producers, customers, companies, activists, and the quantities we produce and consume.
Can biotextiles alone restore the damage the fashion industry has had on the environment?
Shifting to biotextiles alone will not restore nature’s cycles and the damage we’ve done. We cannot rest all the problems created in the past decades to just one solution in one area. Nonetheless, the shift towards regenerative natural textiles will play a significant role in the journey to environmental restoration and healing. The success and its realisation require multiple solutions in response to the myriad of problems caused by fashion’s linear exploitative relationship with Earth’s resources. Factors such as the volume of consumption, methods of making, transportation, marketing to consumers with the emphasis on volume, social status and not quality and ethics will require changes to be made to the whole of fashion’s default operating model in the capitalist constant growth economy of today.
How do you think the topics discussed in your dissertation could impact sustainable fashion culture in the future?
I’m hopeful that my dissertation will contribute to the growing interest in sustainable textile innovation and expand the pool of knowledge on the potential impact of bio-based materials as a sustainable alternative to polluting synthetic textiles. In nature there are no leftovers, no waste – everything is part of one big organism made up of many small organisms all cooperating together with one another. This is the organisational model that the fashion industry should be mimicking if it wants to continue existing within the physical limitations of our planet Earth. Sadly the industry’s current extractive and linear system of take, make, and waste makes it impossible for the environment to sustain our current rates of production and consumption. The topics I have explored show that a different approach is possible, one in collaboration with natural cycles.
Since writing your body of work are there any new findings in fashion’s relationship with nature that you would include if you were to rewrite the piece?
If I was to go back and write it again, I would be interested to research further into governmental policies and action taken throughout the years, what the impact of stronger regulation on the textile and fashion industry would be and whether that would have been enough to avoid the environmental threats we are witnessing today.
As my primary research included interviews with active members of the biodesign field, both interviewees have pointed out that government action is a necessary step towards healing fashion’s extractive linear relationship with nature, something so significant shouldn’t be solely the consumer’s responsibility. Both individuals also expressed their lack of confidence in how governments globally are approaching sustainability within fashion, that is reason enough to understand that there’s a lot of room for improvement and implementing better legislation.
