Colèchi speaks to Valeria about the impact of nation-branding in Colombia, and the role that fashion has within it.
‘In a current panorama where mobility and social media are blending borders, branding has become a necessary tool that maintains the state’s Westphalian structures, alongside international cooperation’.
What is the title of your work?
Fashion As a Tool of Nation-Branding: a Colombian Case Study
What was your overarching opinion on how fashion can exploit nation-branding?
Through a multi-disciplinary theoretical approach, where International Relations and Fashion Studies perspectives were implemented; visual analysis was established as an appropriate methodology to observe the social media activity of ProColombia and luxury swimwear brands. I believe that both state and non-state actors are adhering to tropicalists traits to present Colombia in the international arena. That is to say, both ProColombia and the swimwear brands are exoticizing their country and presenting simulacra [likeness or semblance] of reality by insisting on its biodiversity and cultural mixture. Also, both actors are engaging in eurocentric ideas by targeting their products and messages towards global north countries. More definitely, this could be noted in the video of Marca País, where white British influencers were hired to attract British and European audiences.
On the other hand, all swimwear brands displayed strong tropical and Caribbean Chic references that demonstrate a ‘Colonial Nostalgia’. Botanical illustrations inspire Juan de Dios and Agua by Agua Bendita’s aesthetic, and nature is presented as undiscovered and untouched by men. Verde Limón Swimwear, Agua by Agua Bendita and Juan de Dios, also adhere to the fashionable ideal concept, where mostly white and slender women are the protagonists of these Instagram posts. Furthermore, they are bounding the Colombian female body to the fashionable ideal tropes and are associating it with notions of leisure, fashionability, and effortless beauty. Even though the brand Maygel Coronel does not advertise these fashionable ideal traits, it certainly is presenting complex expressions of colonial romanticisation. It is possible to state that these swimwear brands are naive of what their colonial nostalgia implies in a nation-state such as Colombia and by not problematising this colonial past they are intensifying the status-quo.
Did you make any interesting discoveries about nation-branding whilst researching how fashion is being used to exoticise Colombia?
Yes, I discovered that non-state actors (brands) are oftentimes oblivious about their portrayal of “Colombianness” and in many ways take imagery of colonialism to romanticise this period of time in order to erase the stereotypical images associated with cocaine and drug trafficking. On the other hand, state actors also exoticise Colombia through tropicalism and the biodiversity of the country. These two approaches can result as counterproductive since it is reproducing and exacerbating other stereotypes that can harm Colombia’s image in the long term.
What were your concluding thoughts on the nation-branding power of the fashion world?
As many International Relations theorists believe, the international system is anarchic; no supra-state establishes the order. … Moreover, in the international sphere, states are not the only ones that have the power to condition what happens in the globe, non-state actors such as organisations, terrorist groups, or even bloggers have incidence in this field, and they also may be able to cooperate alongside state bodies.
Moreover, states are engaging with Nye’s ideas of soft power and are using fashion as an instrument of nation-meaning construction, and cultural exchange. This dissertation focused on the Colombian case and observed how state and non-state actors are using fashion to mystify Colombia’s image and cater it to international audiences. Besides, these players are using social media to reach a bigger audience and attract tourists and investors.
ProColombia, on the other hand, is not entirely following this colonial nostalgia, but it is resorting to local and ethnic motives that intensify this national symbolism. In addition, ProColombia has demonstrated that they want to present Colombia as a place of creativity, with substantial fashion importance and a recognisable aesthetic in order to attract investors and tourists. Besides, the documentation of fashion events where the country and Colombian brands are present, help increase connections with actors in the fashion industry and other state and non-state performers.
How do you think your discussion could impact the future of fashion culture?
I believe that my discussion could open more doors to multi-disciplinary collaborations. Social, political, cultural, and even economic phenomenons need to have a multi-disciplinary approach to avoid overlooking the possible variables. My work wanted to observe a common practice in international relations (nation branding) and evaluate how fashion could be an important tool to promote the international image of a country.
This research is a stone that makes part of the Fashion Studies and International Relations study path; it took essential perspectives from each discipline to understand the impacts that state and non-state actors have in the nation branding phenomenon. The limitations this research faced were mainly associated with the current outbreak that has shaken the international system. Being away from Colombia and secluded in London due to this situation, limited my options to access to archives. I needed to design an optimum method that would allow me to answer my research questions from home.
I urge researchers to continue the path that connects these two disciplines and conduct a replica of this study by incorporating interviews or archival studies to understand more deeply the awareness Colombian state and non-state actors have about the notions of national identity they are selling abroad.
Since writing your body of work are there any new findings or trends in nation-branding within fashion that you would include if you were to rewrite the piece?
What I have observed is that brands keep maintaining the same imagery and colonial/tropical aesthetic. This needs to change since Colombia is a diverse country with mountains (the Andes), where you can find cold weather and not only tropical hot climates. If I were to start this research again I would have conducted interviews with people in Pro-Colombia and better understand their international strategy. Moreover I would also interview the brands and see what their vision for the future is and what trends are they drawn to.
Right now there is an interesting aesthetic movement in the Andes that has an urban and indigenous vibe, without a doubt it would be interesting to explore this and see if this has any transnational proclivity.
Cover Image: Taken by Agua by Agua Bendita
