Colèchi chats with Teodora Serbanescu about the role that clothes can play in self-expression and identity.
‘Mostly, we are taught by society that we should be sure of who we are and learn to dress in a specific way that represents us. But what if we are represented by multiple ‘identities’? What if we cannot be tied down to only a particular way of being?’
What is the title of your work?
We Belong in the Spaces Between – An Essay on the Glorification of Camp Character, Spectatorship and the Semiotics of Trailblazing in Fashion.
What is your opinion on how clothing can be used to present identity?
My overarching argument is that a continuous change in the appearance and clothing of a subject can create stability and security for their identity. Usually, having fluctuating styles or a certain ‘performativity’ in the way one dresses, is seen as outrageous or weird. We do not have to put any labels on individuals such as Camp, Queer or Attention-seeking. It is just clothing and I perceive it as a form of self-expression. I certainly believe that we cannot expect everyone to conform to the mainstream culture and wear ‘camouflage’ outfits. Therefore, I believe that self-sexualization or self-irony through clothing is not a weakness, but, paradoxically, I consider it to be a massive tool.
‘Fashion is not just a caprice and neither is extravagance or style-conversion’ (p. 5).
Did you make any interesting discoveries whilst researching spectatorship in fashion?
By undertaking a survey on Spectatorship and Performance through clothing in Fashion, I was surprised to find that the same number of people (80%) who admitted they are active followers of the Mainstream Culture are equally influenced (80%) by it when it came to their opinion on their favourite artists/performers.
These figures have made me ask myself: does the freewill of opinion exist? And how much is the way that we perceive others’ identity and clothing ‘performance’ linked to external influencing factors (other’s opinions, news, media, cultures, subcultures)?
What did your research conclude about the role of clothing in self expression?
My work concluded that clothing can transcend the role of a social ‘armour’ and can be turned into a political statement which questions all the existing cultural and subcultural limitations.
Primary and secondary research has proven to me that gender dualities have been recreated by people along the past decades and so was the definition of extravagance and misfitting.
This concludes that no matter what subculture or trend we are talking about, from Camp to Queer Culture, any form of expression can be deconstructed and rebuilt and no clothing, social or political reference is predetermined or axiomatic.
How do you think that the topic you explored could precipitate itself in the future of fashion?
I hope it is going to have some sort of impact, but I am not sure that I only want it to have an impact on Fashion. I am thinking a bit more outside the box when I want to bring a different creative input. What I usually write about, including this work, is about analysing people, their minds and choices, so clothing is just auxiliary to this discussion. It would be honestly great if I can contribute as much as I can to making people see that Fashion is actually Culture in a wearable form.
The discussion I am trying to bring to the table through my project “We Belong in the Spaces Between” is that it is absolutely okay to not want to conform to certain predetermined social boxes and that our clothing identities can fluctuate depending on circumstances or how we feel at that specific moment in time.
The big message here would be: “If what feels normal to you, is seen as weird by society, then just be weird!”
Since writing your body of work are there any current trends in fashion and performativity that you would include if you were to rewrite the piece?
I would definitely look more into a Social Media trend that is everywhere right now: Avant Apocalypse. I really find it interesting how just by wrapping fabric around one’s body can be so innovative, yet hard to balance. Deconstructing garments is clearly one of my big passions when it comes to design and it metaphorically sends a message of deconstruction parts of one’s identity in order to get the big picture right.
The second thing I wanted to do, but it is a pity I could not, is attending live queer or camp shows in London. It would have been absolutely amazing to use them as a visual discourse for my primary research, but due to COVID-19 restrictions, they were either postponed or cancelled.
Does your chosen topic of research have any relevance to the career you would like to pursue?
As exemplified in the subtitle of my dissertation, the research for my final year project revolves around the power of Spectatorship and Trailblazing in Fashion.
My collection certainly brings a feeling of weirdness and streetstyle extravagance through digital prints and deconstructed garments, highlighting the semiotic power of Fashion which the wearer uses to express the politics of their own body.
I do not know if my career will be mainly built on being a Fashion Designer, but I am sure I want to bring awareness about diversity, subcultures and the importance of self-expression through clothing by writing and creating a digital platform.
Header Image: Hyein Seo
