What Is the Impact of Synthetic Clothing On our Health?

We are constantly told to: “go organic”, “buy natural”, and “avoid anything synthetic”. However, when you hear something frequently, it can lose its meaning, especially when applied to fashion where we have overused words we once trusted. It seems that the most affordable garments go through unethical processes, are of poor quality, and use synthetic fibres – which recent studies are showing can also be harmful to our health. Why is this the case when over 60% of our garments contains polyester? And would the warnings hold more weight if they came from healthcare professionals instead of our preachy, ‘woke’ friends?

Synthetic fabrics are man-made fibres created from non-renewable resources (such as oil, coal, or gas). They are so common today because they’re cheaper to manufacture and easy to produce en masse, so they can fuel the fast-fashion demand (and crisis) that we are currently facing. Examples of synthetic fibres are household names such as polyester, rayon, acrylic, nylon, and spandex. It would probably be a miracle if the clothes you were wearing right now didn’t have at least a fibre blend that included one of these synthetic fibres. 

On top of this, these synthetic fabrics are usually finished off with a toxic chemical cocktail that gives our clothes their bright, rainbow hues – fibres and yarn normally come in neutral and nude tones so most of our clothes are dyed. It is thought that over 8,000 chemicals are used in the colouring process of clothing manufacture, and it’s estimated that a single mill can use 200 tons of fresh water per ton of dyed fabric. The most common and harmful is Azo dyes. When broken down, these dyes are well-known carcinogens, due to the high concentration of heavy metals in their composition, which allows them to achieve a bright coloured finish. However, the last time I checked the NHS website, there was nothing telling me to avoid wrapping my body in clothes that contain these chemicals.  

One of the biggest issues with synthetic fibres is that they are essentially a form of plastic, for example, polyester is made from petroleum. Therefore, they take an incredibly long time to decompose (500-1000 years, in fact) and can seep into the earth, underwater systems, and other waterways. Before moving on to how this affects our skin, let’s look at the impact it has on the planet. If incinerated, they release toxic substances into the air, such as dioxins and acidic gases – so there are really limited ways in which synthetic fibres can be destroyed, or even recycled. Due to them being essentially a form of plastic, they also contribute to 35% of microplastic pollution on earth. Each year 1.5 million tons of microplastics end up in the sea; so, synthetic fibres are also killing marine life and poisoning the ocean.

Dyes seep into the environment in similar ways. The Citarum River, in Indonesia, is referred to as the most polluted river in the world as garment factories dispose of toxic chemicals in local waterways, disregarding the ecosystems that rely on this water source. Accountability is a huge issue in the fashion industry; because the countries that produce the garments have poor regulation of water disposal, large fashion brands cannot be held accountable for the damage. Therefore, they ceaselessly pollute the environment (and local communities) without any repercussions. 

So, what about the bodies that wear this chemically created clothing? What about the skin that spends nearly every moment swaddled in chemical compounds disguised as fashion? Let’s look back to our biology classes at school when we were baffled when the teacher would address the class, asking: ‘what is the body’s largest organ?’. Sizing on average at 3.6 kilograms and 2 square metres, the skin is the body’s largest organ. This means that besides acting as a nifty waterproof coat for us, it is involved in exchange processes – our pores allow substances (like sweat) to exit the body, and therefore substances also enter back in through our skin. Due to its porosity, it will absorb almost everything it comes into contact with, so if you’re wearing a polyester shirt, the chemicals used in its production will be absorbed into your body. 

In addition to the chemicals that get into our bodies through physical contact, the same pollution that enters the sea is also present in our bodies. Flaws in water filtration allow us to drink the microplastics that enter the environment throughout the synthetic fashion lifecycle, whilst the pollution of the ocean also means that microplastics are in fish and other food that we eat. In a recent discovery, samples of deep lung tissue from patients undergoing surgery found that 11 in 13 patients had microplastics in their lungs. Microplastics have also been found in the placentas of pregnant women, and in an experiment with pregnant rats the microplastics were observed as quickly passing through the heart, brain, and other organs of the unborn foetus itself. More research is being undertaken to see if these microplastics are also carcinogenic as we attempt to fully understand how they’ll affect the structures and processes of the human body. 

Which fabrics and dyes should I avoid? 

PolyesterOne of the most common, but most dangerous synthetic fibres, it is petroleum-based and made using dihydric alcohol and terephthalic acid – both of which are incredibly toxic and still present after manufacturing. This can lead to issues such as dermatitis, and respiratory infections, and has even been linked to a reduced sperm count and breast cancer. 
Rayon (also known as Viscose)Often seen as one of the ‘better’ fibres, this cellulose-based fibre is not as natural as its wood-pulp origins would indicate. The chemicals required to transform the tough fibres into a fabric are processed using carbon disulphide, ammonia, acetone, sulphuric acid, and caustic soda. Factory workers exposed to these chemicals are at an increased risk of strokes and nerve damage – not to mention the surrounding community when the waste is put into water systems. When worn, and absorbed by your skin, these chemicals can cause nasty side effects such as headaches, nausea, and insomnia. Rayon is also a huge contributor to deforestation, wasting around 70% of the tree in the production process. 
AcrylicPetroleum-based again, it’s highly flammable and contains a chemical that is labelled as a carcinogen and a mutagen. On top of this, it can also cause rashes, headaches, nausea, kidney problems and breathing difficulties when regularly worn. 
NylonAgain, made from petroleum and treated heavily with chemicals, it is often used for underwear fabric. It doesn’t absorb sweat and causes headaches, allergies, and dizziness. Often treated to be ‘anti-crease’ or ‘water-resistant’, you should also try to avoid fabrics with specific treatments as these are all performed with chemicals. 
SpandexMade using strong chemicals such as dimethyl sulfoxide, if worn for long periods it can cause allergies, impetigo, and folliculitis. 
Azo Dyes The most common dyes, and a known carcinogen when they are broken down. Alongside the bodily harm this can cause, their use is a huge issue as it pollutes water systems during manufacturing. For example, Azo Dyes pollute the Citarum River (Indonesia) where 35 million people rely on water from the source. Increased risk of cancer, skin diseases, and slow mental development in children have all been observed as a result of the water pollution. 

So, what fabrics and dyes should I use? 

In this minefield, there are solutions and it’s not all doom and gloom. An increasing number of designers, brands, and companies are noticing the health risks of chemicals used in fashion. Although the knowledge is yet to be common practice or recommended by health professionals, changes are starting to occur. 

As expected, the better options are pricier – but that’s because there are fewer shortcuts and the process is naturally slower. However, the more we push for change, the more we are likely to see garments that are better for our skin. Also, these well-made garments will last infinitely longer than those made from synthetic blends, so are well worth the price. 

Organic Cotton (or pretty much any other organic fibre) The best fabrics you can put next to your skin are those that are totally natural, and preferably organic. For example, non-organic cotton is often treated with harsh pesticides and chemicals during the farming process – making it one of the most polluting crops in agriculture. It is also very water-intensive and often has unfair treatment in the supply chain for workers, too. So, try and stick to Certified Organic Cotton, which is produced using no chemicals, and less water and energy – good for your skin, and the world. 
OEKO-TEX Certified DyesWhen shopping keep an eye out for this label – this means the dyes are certified to be free from harmful amounts of chemicals known to be toxic to humans, animals, and the environment. They still provide vibrant hues, but without the damaging side effects. 
Natural Vegetable Dyes Becoming more prevalent, we are looking to the past to learn how to behave in the future. Natural dyes existed long before our chemical solutions and are making a comeback as designers attempt to return to our (sometimes literal) roots.
Digital PrintingA new method that uses less water and CO2, digital printing uses machines that can precisely print a design and avoid wasting dye in the process. 

Companies doing it right:

TryKind An absolute favourite at our aGREENculture event, this brand only uses natural dyes and organic cotton in production. Focusing on underwear and loungewear, they ensures that our most intimate areas are protected and feeling the benefits of a variety of natural dye combinations. 
Indigo Luna Advocates of natural yoga and swimwear, they recycle fabric and are totally transparent when it comes to the production line. Using natural dyes from a 100% organic process, they’re taking things back to basics.
JunkA swimwear brand doing exactly what it says on the label – using junk to create swimwear from recycled fishing nets and plastic bottles. It’s a zero-waste brand, with fairly paid workers and some of the vibrant pieces use digital printing methods, using UK-based, eco-friendly dyes. 
Offset IntimatesAnother up-and-coming brand that aims to offset the carbon footprint and environmental damage of the fashion supply chain, forming natural and reliable intimate pieces. 

On top of these smaller, independent brands larger brands are finally starting to (albeit slowly) follow suit. Levi’s, Converse, Mango, and H&M are all experimenting with plant-based and mineral dyes in their new collections. 

Change is happening and word is getting out, and the more we talk about these issues the faster the change will happen. But, how can you help now? The next time you buy an item of clothing: do your research. If you’re buying a garment brand new, look at what the item is made of, how it was dyed, and where it was manufactured. Another great way to avoid bad habits is to buy second-hand items, keep clothes in the cycle for longer, or upcycle items you already have to give them a new lease of life and delay their journey to landfill. 

Whatever you do, make sure you question what you’re putting in contact with your skin. With recent discoveries on the impact of synthetic fabrics and dyes, we are no longer shielded from fast fashion, but exposed to their impact every second of the day. Gone are the days of being detached from our clothing. Now, it’s getting personal.

Further Reading

‘Problems With Synthetic Fibres’, Movemetica

Why Are Fabric Dyes Bad For the Environment?’, Lydia Bolton

‘Are There Hidden Chemicals In Our Clothing?’, Remake

‘5 Textiles to Avoid’, Luxiders

‘Microplastics Found Deep in Lungs of Living People for First Time’, The Guardian

Images used in this article are from Colechi’s aGREENculture Event, Try Kind Clothing and Fibreshed.

Rosie Trethewey

Rosie Trethewey

Rosie's interest in fashion all stemmed from the desire to make her own clothes as a teenager. Ever since, she's been teaching herself how to sew and how to make the fashion world a more sustainable industry. Her Master's Degree in Environmental Literature fuelled this interest; here she attempts to combine her love for writing, fashion, and the environment.

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